A
Distributor is a combination of two mechanically activated switches
in a plastic and metal housing. One of the switches is a simple
on and off switch. This is called the points. The points
ride against a multi-lobed cam that operates the points (turns
the switch on and off). There
are as many lobes as there are cylinders in the engine. The
points tells the ignition coil when to send a spark to the
cylinders (timing). Timing
needs to change with engine speed so the points sit on a
movable platform that advances the point timing at higher
RPMs. Most distributors have two advances, mechanical
and vacuum to move the plate the points sit on.
The other switch is a rotary switch that rotates to as many
contacts as you have cylinders in your engine. The moving part
of the switch is called the rotor. The switch contacts are in
the distributor cap. The rotor sits on top of the distributor
shaft and is rotated by the shaft so that it touches each contact
in succession. This switch routes the spark to the correct
cylinder when the points tells the coil to generate a spark.
Points (the on-off switch the tells the
coil to make a spark)
The points are a replaceable on and off switch located on a plate
within the top of your distributor. The points control when the
coil will send a jolt of electricity through the cap and rotor
to a spark plug.
The points have two contacts. One contact is stationary. The
other contact has a plastic follower on its arm that rides on
the distributor shaft cam. The cam pushes the follower, opening
and closing the points.
One of the points is grounded, providing a return path to the
battery. The other point carries electricity from the low voltage
side of the coil. When the points open, a high voltage flows
from the coil, through the center contact in the distributor
cap, through the rotor, the cap, the spark plug and to the ground.
When you set the point gap, you are setting up the length of
time the switch will be on & off in relation to the turning
of the distributor shaft.
When points close each time there is a small spark between
the contacts. Over time a little bit of contact material
is moved from one contact to the other by the spark. A
hole is created in one contact and a mound on the other. This
affects the point gap which changes the timing and keeps you
from correctly regaping the points with a feeler gauge. Points
are worn out when you can not get proper gap with a feeler
gauge. You need to replace them when this happens. You
can file small mounds on point contacts and get a fresh contact
surface with a miniature flat file or sand paper. This
trick will get you a few more miles out of a set of points. This
is a good thing to know if you are on a long trip with no replacement
points handy.
If you have the ignition switch on with the engine not turning
and the points are closed, current will flow continually through
the points. This causes the points to heat up and can burn them
so they no longer function correctly. This is why most
cars have an accessories ignition switch position. Everything
is on except there is no power to the ignition system. Our older
Triumphs do not have an accessory ignition switch position so
we should not leave the ignition switch on when the engine is
off.
Distributor advances (the way your engine tell the points when
the spark is needed)
An engine needs to have the spark arrive at different times
for different engine speeds. To accomplish this the distributor
has a mechanical advance and usually but not always a vacuum
advance. These advances advance the timing (when
the points tells the coil to make a spark) at higher engine RPMs. The
points sit on a movable platform. The mechanical advance
is made up of a set of weights and springs. The turning
of the distributor shaft pushes out the weights advancing the
timing as RPM is increased. When
this happens depends upon the springs. Broken or weak springs
or a rusted or gunked up mechanical advance can make the vehicle
seem low in power and can cause engine overheating under load. You
can check for a frozen mechanical advance by using a timing light
on the timing marks with the vacuum advance disconnected. You
should see the mark on the flywheel pulley move when take
the engine from idle to higher RPMs. If this doesn't
happen you need to have your distributor rebuilt.
Most engines also have a vacuum advance as well as the mechanical
ones. What this does is advance the engine even more when
it is under load for better power. starting in the mid
70's some distributors came with a vacuum retard that retards
the timing when the engine is under load to reduce hydrocarbon
emissions. The
metal disk shaped thing hanging off the side of your distributor
is the vacuum advance/retard. It has a rubber diaphragm
inside that is attached to the movable plate your points sit
on. One
side of the diaphragm is open to the outside (ambient air pressure).
The other side is connected to the base of your carb or intake
manifold through a tube. The
level of vacuum from the base of the carb pulls a rubber diaphragm
and changes the timing. You check to see if this is working with
the engine off. Remove the distributor cap so you can see
the point mounting platform and disconnect the vacuum line from
the base of the carb or intake manifold. Apply a vacuum
either mechanically by a vacuum pump such as a Mity-Vac or by
sucking on the tube. You should see the point attachment
platform move when you apply vacuum an stay advanced as long
as the vacuum is applied. If it does not move or or
moves then goes back to the original location with vacuum still
applied you either have a bad diaphragm or tube/connection. Either
the vacuum advance unit on the distributor need to be replaced
or you have to fix or replace the vacuum line. A problem
here cause two things to happen. The engine does not get
proper advance for full power under load and the air leak leans
out the air fuel mixture going to the cylinders. This can
cause loss of power, pinging and can shorten valve life dramatically.
Cap & rotor (the rotary switch that
tells the spark where to go)
The rotor sits on top of the distributor shaft and rotates around
in circles. It has a metal strip that goes from the center of
the rotor top to the outside of the rotor cap. This is a switch
contact. The cap has a center contact and as many contacts around
the top edge of the cap as there are cylinders in the engine.
The center contact is a spring loaded carbon contact that rides
on the center of the rotor. The Rotor is just long enough to
reach the outer contacts on the distributor cap. The high voltage
electricity from the coil goes through the big wire coming out
the end of the coil to the center of the distributor cap. It
then travels down the carbon contact to the metal plate on the
rotor, along the metal plate to one of the outer contacts on
the top of the distributor cap. It goes out of the distributor,
through the spark plug wire to the spark plug. A spark jumps
the gap in the spark plug igniting the air fuel mixture causing
it to burn.
The important thing is that the rotor needs to be pointing at
the right terminal when the jolt of electricity is coming from
the coil. This is set by rotating the distributor body. Since
the rotor points to each contact around the cap in order, each
contact on the direction of turn goes to the next cylinder that
needs a spark. This is called the firing order. If you
know the firing order and which distributor cap contact goes
to cylinder number one, you know which spark plug wire goes
where.
To set the point gap (length of time
the points stay open, affects spark intensity):
Locate the plastic cam follower on the movable point arm. To
set the timing, this follower needs to be sitting at the tip
of a cam lobe. If you are going to set the timing afterwards,
you can loosen the ring at the base of the distributor and rotate
the distributor until the plastic follower is sitting on the
tip of a cam lobe. If you are not planning to adjust the timing
afterward, put the car into fourth gear and push the car forward
until the plastic follower is sitting on the tip of the cam
lobe. This is best done with a helper and in a place where the
car will not get away from you. Alternatively, you can put the
transmission into neutral and turn the engine over with the
starter crank.
Once the plastic follower is sitting at the tip of the cam lobe,
you can adjust the point gap. On most British cars the gap is
set to 16 thousandths of an inch. You slightly loosen the screw
holding the points down, move the arm until the gap is correct
then retighten the screw.
This means the 16 thousandths feeler gauge will go between the
points without opening them farther, but a 17 thousandths feeler
gauge will not. Tighten the mounting screw. You are now ready
to adjust the timing.
Lucas makes this nifty distributor tool that fits on your key
chain. It is a combination screwdriver and feeler gauge
that allows you to set the point gap anywhere, anytime.
Continuity Light (tool for setting static
timing):
A continuity light is used to adjust the timing when the engine
is not on. The process is called stationary timing.
A continuity light can be purchased at any auto parts store
or you can make one yourself. It is basically a 12V light with
two wires attached. You connect one wire to ground and the other
to the movable arm of the points. Turn the ignition switch to
the on position. When the points are open, the light is lit.
When the points are closed, the light is not lit.
Adjusting the timing (Telling your distributor
when to make a spark at idle engine RPM):
Note: This should be done after the point
gap is set, not before. The distributor shaft
rotates in a counter clockwise direction. If you turn the distributor
housing counter clockwise, the direction that the rotor is
turning, you are retarding the timing. If you turn the distributor
housing clockwise, into the rotation of the rotor you are advancing
the timing.
First, locate the number one spark plug. For inline engines,
it is the one closest to the radiator. Follow the number one plug's
wire back to the rotor. When the number one plug fires, the rotor
will be pointing to that contact . Remember where the contact
is located along the circumference of the distributor then remove
the cap so you can see where the rotor is pointing.
Line up the timing marks on the engine block and crank pulley
with the rotor pointing at the cap terminal that has the spark
plug wire going to the number one spark plug. Since the crank
rotates twice as fast as the distributor shaft you have a 50%
chance of getting it right the first time. If the rotor is pointing
to a different terminal, rotate the engine one more time until
the timing marks are lined up and the rotor is pointing to the
number one plug. Once you have the timing marks lined up
loosen the bolt to the clamp at the base of the distributor so
that the distributor body can be rotated.
What you want is for the points to just be opening when the timing
point is lined up. This is where the continuity light just comes
on.
If you look at the plastic follower that rubs against the distributor
cam, you want it to be on the leading side of a cam lobe. This
will be the counter clockwise, or left side of the cam lobe.
Attach the continuity light and turn the ignition switch on.
With the follower on the correct side of the lobe, slowly turn
the distributor body clockwise until the continuity light just
comes on (The points just start to open). If it's already on,
move the distributor body counter clockwise (retard) until the
continuity light goes off. Then slowly rotate it clockwise.
Once you are satisfied that you have the distributor body in
the location where the points are just opening (the light just
goes on), turn the ignition off and tighten the base of the distributor.
Reassemble everything and go out for a drive.
Total timing
Initial timing (static advance) plus vacuum advance plus mechanical
advance should equal no more than 34 degrees total. 32 degrees
works best for stock engines. Longer duration cams require
a greater initial advance than stock cams. This means if
you put a longer duration cam in your engine the total advance
should be checked and the distributor advance reduced if the
total is greater than 34 degrees.
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